From War to Wildlife

The Eastern Shore National Wildlife Refuge occupies a strategic location on the extreme southern tip of the Delmarva peninsula. During World War II, Fort Custis was established here and bunkers were built that housed 16" guns to protect the mouth of the Chesapeake. After the war it became Cape Charles Air Force Base and radar towers were built for use during the Cold War. In 1984 all of this was turned over U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to establish the refuge to protect an equally strategic piece of real estate for the natural world, especially the avian world. Literally millions of neo-tropical songbirds, waterfowl and raptors come through this place yearly. The geography of the Delmarva peninsula funnels all these birds southward in the fall where they wait until climatic conditions are right to cross the Chesapeake Bay.

For most of my life I have driven by this place at least a dozen times a year and have never stopped. We are usually more interested in where we are going, or in getting home to stop, and besides the car is full of dogs and one or two people who don't enjoy traipsing through wilderness. This past August I was temporarily childless, wifeless and dogless and decided to stop.

The refuge is a mixture of ecosystems that include forests, meadows, freshwater ponds, salt marshes and creeks. There is a very nice visitor center just past the Cheasapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel and makes a good stop for people who would like to stretch their legs for a break during road trips. Around the center are the only cultivated areas and these are meant to showcase some of the native plants and to attract butterflies. Exotic Lantana and native Joe Pye were both present.

The only real trail leads from the back of the Visitors Center through an open field that is inhabited by too many non-native species. Although there are several native Lespedezas, I think this one looks more like one of the Asian species.

The Lespedeza was still behaving itself and had not taken over large areas (yet). One of the worst challenges that the refuge faces is in trying to get control of the Fennel and Japanese Honeysuckle. There is apparently an eradication program in place, which is a good thing because these two thugs were everywhere.

There were a number of native vines also present, and they seemed to be holding their own against the foreigners. I felt that if I stood still long enough I would soon be covered by one or more of them. This is Wisteria frutescens reblooming as is its habit.

World War II may be over, but an older struggle was still going on between the Virginia Creeper and the Trumpet Vine.
One of the worst weeds in my own garden is this Passion Vine, it comes up through everything.
Sweet Autumn Clematis was doing its part to choke out some poor shrub.
I have no idea what type of flower these are, but they were very pretty and tall with large leaves. Perhaps some sort of Sunflower.

Native Muhlenbergia was beginning to bloom...
... as was the Sumac.

The female Wax Myrtles were berrying-up and will be needed for some of those birds to make it across the bay.

I did not see much wild fauna as it was the hottest part of the day, but that did not seem to deter this turtle. I would have taken a picture of the 5' black snake that suprised me and nearly made we wet myself, but I was too busy running the other way. A truly wild cherry.
The only part of the base that is still visible are the two massive bunkers that housed the guns. Their tops have been completely and thickly covered by vegetation. On one of them you can climb up to a good view of the woods, marsh and the Atlantic beyond.

Next week the refuge will be one of the hosts for a few of the events during The Eastern Shore Birding and Wildlife Festival.

Finally, for those of you who like to know where this place is, here is an image compliments of NASA.